CASES:

Lian Li Q08B – 159

Needs standard atx psu, 6x hdd bay another 1 if you use the 5 1/4 bay

Asus AT3IONT-I – $210

Atom N330 Dual core, DDR3, PCI

ISSUES:

Addonics 5 port SATA multiplier (link) $140

You may notice that most of these boards only have 2 sata ports which is bad mkay.. BUT… I have thought of that and found. This will allow JBOD and RAID5, dont expect blistering performance but for a low end file server it will do.

That is the basics of what I envisage to be a nice cheap and reliable system, it will be low power and I have stated I don’t expect blistering speed from it. I picture 6x 2Tb WD green drives running in JBOD (as it is just a media server and doesn’t have the real need for redundancy). Any thats all I have for now.

So here are the plans for the Reversing sensors (actually more interested in having these on the front of the car).

Basically we will need a few things:

1 . Device (Ebay link) Cost: $50 (will need two for the front and the back) :

2a. DIY USB adapters (link) Cost (NA):

2b. Buy premade adapter (link) Cost (60 pounds each would need one for front and rear):

3. Centrafuse plugin (link) Version 3 plugin in Beta:

As you can see above the plug-in supports use of USB cameras, so I may either buy one or re-purpose one.

So to start off lets take this rear brake light out of the parcel shelf. Place your hands either side with your thumbs on the rear of the housing (opposite end to which the break light shines).

Gently with your thumbs press forwards while lifting it up a bit.

You should hear it click a little then pull it towards you and it should come out. Beware the brake light cable is normally connected under there do push down on the clip on the connection to pull it off.

Once unplugged turn over and pull the insulation out where the wire is coming from. Grab a phillips head and undo the two screws holding the light (put them somewhere safe you will need these).

This is the back of the housing without the insulation and screws taken out.

Empty housing.

I went down to Jaycar and grabbed a pack of ZD0456 RGB LED Modules 12VDC (I would have grabbed pure red but they didnt have any and i was in a hurry) for about $14 (online sais they are more expensive), but here you could use any 12V led system as long as its the same size as the housing. These particular ones from jaycar came with all cables and mounting brackets.

I removed the old strip with leds by using a small flathead on the two tabs above and it popped out of the clear housing.

I cut the two wires leading to the PCB, Also using a set of pliers I removed the old dead LED’s (This is just to give the new LED’s housings somewhere to sit)

I attached the old wires to the new wires (simple connector i have used when i have time i will go back and solder and heat shrink but this works at the moment) NOTE… As the black is positive on the LEDS You must go from BLACK -> RED and RED -> BLACK, i also cut the Red and Green wires as they have no use.

I broke one end off the old LED strip to allow the cables through, (you could most probably drill a hole in the side of the housing but i was all about time at this point)

I mounted the new LEDs on top of the old led strip using the Jaycar supplied mounts (with the little ears snapped off)

Popped the rest of the reflector on and its ready to go. Plug it in and test the brake in the car, if it lights up .. were all good, if it only flashes when you take your foot off its because you wired one end of the connector wrong.

If successful mount the unit back into the housing.  And go reinstall it in the car.

Hopefully shoudl look like this..

All done, It may not be as super bright as the originals, But for $20 its a damn load cheaper then the 160 they want to bring one in. If you had a lot of time you could buy the leds and solder them on yourself and get it working again, but who know how long for, as I quickly probed it and nothing seemed to be letting current through.

Originally from:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/diy-Put-A-v-Input-350g-t184366.html&hl=REMOTE&st=180#

Hello,

Today i pulled appart the TV tuner located in the boot!

I have already done this mod, and put the RCA plugs in the centre console, I installed a reversing camera, and was sick of always having to press the TV button to get the camera to come up.

When i opened up the TV Tuner, i found that there are 2 pins on the circuit board from the main plug that have CONT 1 and Cont 2 written on the PCB.

When you ground either one of them it changes the monitor automatically to the spare AV input.

So i connected a relay off the reverse lights whichs ground the CONT 1 Pin therefore automatically switching in the reverse camera when placed into reverse.

Cheers
Pete

The photos show – 1 – TV Tuner PCB

Reverse Camera

Centre console RCA’s

The Monitor with camera displayed

How to Bypass Video on stock radios – Infinity/Nissan

Originally from: http://www.coderetard.com/2008/05/08/how-to-bypass-video-on-a-2008-g35/

This mod is “do at your own risk” and is not intended for use on public roadways while driving.

I have an aftermarket DVD player feeding the A/V input in the center console. The car does not have Nav; just the stock monitor. The problem that has to be overcome is 2 parts. First, the E-Brake signal has to be grounded. That’s pretty common. I located the wire in the back of the harness and grounded it. But once I got above 4 mph, just like others who have done the E-Brake ground, my video shut off. So obviously there was a speed sense wire somewhere as well. Well, I took the dash back apart and located the speed sense wire. Conveniently, it was right next to the E-Brake ground! Here is a picture of the harness:

As you can see in the pic, the gray wire on the end of the harness is the speed sense wire. Simply cut this wire, and terminate both ends using a wire nut so that they do not short out, etc. The wire immediately next to it, which should be light blue, is your E-Brake ground. Cut this wire as well, then ground the side that comes out of the harness to the chassis. I found that one of the mounting screws for the stock monitor was a sufficient ground.

This harness plugs into the part of the factory radio that holds the CD Changer, which is down below the A/C controls. There are 4-5 harnesses that plug into this unit, but this particular harness is right next to the Antenna harness, and is closest to the passenger side of the car, if that makes sense.

Anyway, hope this helps all of you struggling with this issue. I would assume it would work on the 07 as well. The one thing I do want to mention is if you have Nav, you will want to take an extra step, because the Nav needs the speed sense wire to detect car position. So, what you will want to do is, rather than cut and terminate both ends of the speed sense wire cut the wire, and install a toggle switch inline with the wire, so that the speed sense can be turned on and off. Then, when you want to watch a movie, turn it off. When you want to use Nav, turn it back on

Auto turn on Circuit: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/user-innovations/75071-laptop-auto-power-turn-module.html

VGA to RGB + comp sync circuit: http://www.epanorama.net/circuits/vga2rgbs.html

EEE-pc used as a carputer with lots of images: http://www.kendrickcoleman.com/index.php?/Random-Pages/the-carputer-project.html

Info on V35 screen and resolution. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Stock-Nav-Resolution-t273312.html&hl=tricks

So you want the market place or you want your M70003 to be more responsive.

*WARNING DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!*
At the moment there are a few known bugs, like volume buttons on top not working, battery indicator showing incorrectly, some clones also get DEMO writen on the screen.

Here is a video of what you can expect:

So how do you upgrade:
Easy, grab this file: M70003_Slatedroid1.3[1.7.4_base].zip

ONLY EXTRACT IT WITH 7ZIP (link) or things break.. AND IM SERIOUS. I didnt believe it i used winzip and winrar and they both broke parts of android.

Once extracted move the “script” folder to the root of the SD card

Reboot the Android M7003, you should see something like:

Wait until it tells you to remove the SD card, and remove the card.

At this point put the SD card in the PC and rename the “script” folder “scriptold”. This will stop it booting in future.

Configure the touch screen, The touch screen needs to be configured before you can use it.

To get to the Settings pannel Click:

To Scroll the Settings Window click and drag as below:

To Start the touchpad calibration click:

To get youtube application working download and install: com.wmt.tudouwidget.apk

Only known issue i can see at this point is the Volume up and down buttons are not working. I had a play but as i have flashed my iped i am unable to get the settings to replicate it.

Other Files: An Original Dump (M7003_Sys_dump.tar)

SPECIAL  THANKS

Thanks to the folks at Slatedroid for building the new firmware (link)

Thanks to iamgame for the dump of the original M70003 System Directory (link)

Thanks to 9AuM for the new rom with the changed Scriptcmd. (link)

QUICK UPDATE:
If the marketplace stops downloading here is how you fix it:

”
There is a weird bug in the market app. You need to clear the data in goggle apps before a new d/l will work.
Try this:
Best way I’ve found to D/L apps in market.

Go into Market find and start D/l of app you want, it will just sit there at starting d/l. That’s ok for now just find the next app you want and start a d/l on it. Repeat until you have all the apps you want.

Now cancel all the D/l you started.

Exit the market.

Go into setttings, manage applications and clear data in Goggle apps.

Exit settings

Go back into market Login again and into D/L tab
Find the largest app and start the d/l. It should start.
While the d/l is still going on start the rest of the apps D/l.

You can start another d/l as long as another app is still d/l. It’s like once the Market thinks it’s done with d/l’s it’s screwed up and won’t start another. But as long as one app is is in d/l you can start another.
“

The sotry began when i decided we needed a new entertainment unit. The one i had was old sckool wood and just looked terrible. I looked around but all the ones I liked seemed to be $500+ I came upon this ikea LACK bookcase for $99 at ikea and i thought i was almost perfect.

So i used it as it was as an entertainment center for a few months, but after we got new carpet i thought it was about time i put my plan into actions. Thanks to ebay i found some kick ass feet for my bookshelf and ended up costing abotu $60 inc shipping.  Here i am laying the feet out and getting ready to screw them on.

Feet on and situated in the rough rite location. Came out pretty good.

Now it was time to make it cool. I grabbed 2 packs of ikea DIODES led light strips (99$ each although one was ASIS so it was $35) Here is a pic of them roughly hooked up to make sure i had the layout correct.

Once i had the LEDS in their correct location it was time to fasten all the cables so it looks neat also so the cat doesnt play with them and eat them. Yes you CAT.

A quick trip to bunnings for some cable fasteners and here we go:

I located the power buttons and the colour changing buttons under one of the holes for easy on and off.

And heres a video of it all done and working:

So in total i have spent about 300, but it is a one of a kind (for now) and what i wanted.

Good luck all.

You can open an unpriv cmd and a priv cmd and end task explorer.exe

Now run explorer.exe /separate in both priv and un priv cmd windows. This will then allow you to create folders and delete folder and it will automatically refresh.. but there will be no start menu or clock. This is the only way.

From what i can see is that the explorer that runs the start menu and disables the refresh comands of the serate explorer windows.

For those interested here are some trials, inspiration etc.

Its going to the print tomorrow so if you have any ideas thoughts etc let me know, but i cant guarantee i will get them into it.